Paris Fashion Week - Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Fall Winter 2018/19
- Details
- Category: Fashion
- Published on Saturday, 07 July 2018 19:34
- Written by Janet Walker
The House of Chanel debuted its Fall Winter 2018 Haute Couture collection designed by artistic director Karl Lagerfeld to rave reviews with a captivating and enchanting display of lovely garments, powerful in simplicity, perplexing, enigmatic, mysterious. Stunning.
Gorgeous, elegant intricate detailing, hand painted applique accentuating the bodice with the skirt in flowing chiffons, feathers, crepes, silks. Flared sleeves offer a slight modification on the classic Chanel suit, evening wear that flows gently topped with bolero appliqued jackets.
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Feathers with a single brush stroke of color, tri-colored flower petals applied by hand to create a stunning impressionist style pattern and colors. A range of warm tones and winter white encapsulate the palette.
HAUTE COUTURE ACCORDING TO KARL LAGERFELD
"Haute Couture is an island of dreams and escapism. It is the utmost luxury which transcends fashions and crosses time." Karl Lagerfeld's observation summarizes the primary vocation of CHANEL since Gabrielle Chanel first opened her Couture House in 1915.
Imbued with unique know-how, Haute Couture finds its essence in the vision of a designer and the perfection of cut and details, elevated by the craftsmanship of the Maisons d'art that bring their expertise to each creation.
Precision of line, shape and structure is epitomized by singular creations that may be entirely embroidered. In this way, Haute Couture gives free rein to any idea, without limit or constraint. Such creativity goes hand-in-hand with patience and the highest standards.
Zippers are a statement feature of the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture collection, slashing through the silhouettes and transforming the look of tweed suits and evening gowns. Embroidered with braid, they run down jacket sleeves to reveal extra-long fingerless gloves and contrasting linings in silk or brocade. Dresses are made to the same design, with slits up the side revealing embroidered mini-skirts underneath.
THE FLOU AND TAILORING ATELIERS
Haute Couture creations require the talents of the head seamstresses and their experienced teams. Beneath their agile fingers, Karl Lagerfeld's detailed sketches come to life. It starts with a cotton toile, the first interpretation of a design that materializes a silhouette.
After several fittings in the presence of Karl Lagerfeld, 60 or 70 looks of each Haute Couture collection are then created in chosen materials, embroidered, pleated, embellished with feathers, braided, and adorned with jewel-like buttons.
Whether cut in "flou", ethereal fabrics destined for dresses and blouses, or other, more tailored textiles like the tweeds so dear to Gabrielle Chanel, each of the creations requires meticulous execution. Under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld and the Studio, the "flou" atelier thus enters into a savvy dialogue with the "tailoring" atelier, which is specialized in making structured pieces with complex cuts like the CHANEL suit.
FEATHER HEADPIECE
Velvet headpieces by Maison Michel coordinated with the looks in the collection. Embellished with plumes by the workshops at Lemarié, these accessoires enhanced the Haute Couture allure with a finishing touch.
MÉTIERS D'ART AND HAUTE COUTURE
With gestures, techniques and inspirations that are constantly renewed, the CHANEL Métiers d'art houses bring together uncompromising standards and excellence.
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This galaxy counts a number of ateliers with exceptional know-how, among them the feather-working and flower specialist Lemarié.
The shoemaker Massaro, the embroiderers Maison Lesage and Montex, the milliner and hatmaker Maison Michel, the glove-maker Causse and the pleating specialist Lognon.
From the creation of tweeds, laces and silks to feather-working, flower-making and embroidery or the art of accessorizing with hats, gloves and jewelry, Haute Couture celebrates the virtuosity of these remarkable artisans.
Content and images courtesy of the House of Chanel. Art Direction (selection and placement of images) and introduction by Janet Walker.
